Circuit Court New Orleans

Fury's Restaurant
724 Martin Behrman Avenue
Metairie, LA
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11/02

From soup to nuts -- and fried seafood to fried chicken -- Fury's is doing it right. Ain't nothing here for you ambience freaks -- a simple dining room with white walls and white tablecloths. But you're not here to look around, are you? That waitress is going to take your order soon, so figure it out. It's not difficult, because the menu doesn't include any Asian-Thai-Cajun fusion cuisine. This is easy pickings. You want fried stuff, and lots of it.

A word of advice: Don't be in a hurry. It's not that the service is careless or neglectful. It's just that food takes time to cook and that's what Fury's is all about. Take some time and lean back. Why are you in such a hurry to get back outside, anyway? It's a cruel world out there, people. Relax.

We ordered simply from the simple menu: a fried oyster and shrimp combo plate, catfish plate, and a fried chicken dinner. All of it came with dinner salads. Dinner salads are usually a downer for me, and this was no exception, with boring iceberg lettuce slopped over with a weak too-creamy blue cheese dressing. One day a restaurant will surprise me and send out a knockout dinner salad with some interesting and unusual ingredients. Not today, though.

The platters came and my oh my were they loaded down! Big ole half a chicken on a platter with a side of peas, the ultimate comfort food. Hot, too. So hot that you have to wait five minutes or so before taking a bite, though you can barely resist. That means it just came out of the fryer, after being cooked just for you. That's right! You ordered it, they fried it and served it-- freshly made, like a big plateful of love. You remember how restaurants are supposed to cook the stuff AFTER you order it, right? That's how they do it here. That way the food is still steaming when it comes to your table, and you get to enjoy a couple of more minutes of conversation with your mates as it cools a little.

The fried oysters were crunchy, hot and still juicy, just the way I like 'em. And they had a different texture from the shrimp, which means the kitchen has different breading recipes for each type of seafood. (This is a good thing, folks!) I'd like to say the fried chicken was just like my grandmother used to make, but I can't. See, my Nanaw wasn't much of a cook, and this chicken rocks. Hot and crispy and divine. If I have one complaint, and a very small complaint at that, it's the lack of spice. Given the clientele, many of whom are of the septuagenarian set, I can understand not wanting to offend their delicate palates. But c'mon, gimme a little sumpthin-sumpthin in the pepper department, will ya? A pinch of cayenne would send the fried chicken into the next atmosphere. The French fries tasted like fried potatoes, kind of a nice surprise after some of the plaster sticks I've had recently. We ate and drank and laughed as our triglycerides rose. We were a merry bunch, hiding from the cruel world behind big platters of perfectly fried füd What could be better?

Good simple food. Fried. 'Nuff said.

Contact Magistrate Loupe at magistrate@neworleans.com

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